Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
